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Teens are following skincare trends on TikTok. Some dermatologists are wary

Tanja Ivanova
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Getty Images

TikTok is fuel for many trends, including a skincare craze among teens, pre-teens — okay, and us.

The "glass skin" trend calls for a multi-step routine, often involving pricey products. It's all in pursuit of dewy, seemingly poreless, glowing complexion – like glass. Typically, the routine starts with cleansers. Then exfoliants to clear dead skin. Then, a number of other products like toners, essences, serums with active ingredients.

But some dermatologists like Carol Cheng says young kids' attempts to achieve the "glass skin" look can backfire, causing irritated, red, peeling, flaking or burning skin. A pediatric dermatologist at the University of California, Los Angeles, Cheng has had patients as young as eight or nine come to see her with rashes or bad reactions to these products.

That's because certain products like chemical exfoliants or retinols can be harsh on pre-teen skin, which she says is thinner than adult skin and more sensitive to active chemicals. Harsh products can compromise their skin barrier.

Instead, Dallas-based dermatologist Elizabeth Houshmand recommends teens and tweens keep their skin routines simple: a gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. And for teens battling acne, Houshmand suggests over-the-counter products with benzoyl peroxide and consulting a pediatrician or dermatologist.

This story was originally reported for NPR by senior science and health editor and correspondent Maria Godoy. Read Maria's full story here.

Want more of the science behind viral trends? Email us at shortwave@npr.org.

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Today's episode was produced by Rachel Carlson and Mallory Yu. It was edited by Rebecca Ramirez, Tinbete Ermyas and Viet Le. Rachel, Regina Barber and Emily Kwong checked the facts. Tiffany Vera Castro was the audio engineer.

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Emily Kwong (she/her) is the reporter for NPR's daily science podcast, Short Wave. The podcast explores new discoveries, everyday mysteries and the science behind the headlines — all in about 10 minutes, Monday through Friday.
Regina G. Barber
Regina G. Barber is Short Wave's Scientist in Residence. She contributes original reporting on STEM and guest hosts the show.
Scott Detrow is a White House correspondent for NPR and co-hosts the NPR Politics Podcast.
Rebecca Ramirez (she/her) is the founding producer of NPR's daily science podcast, Short Wave. It's a meditation in how to be a Swiss Army Knife, in that it involves a little of everything — background research, finding and booking sources, interviewing guests, writing, cutting the tape, editing, scoring ... you get the idea.
Rachel Carlson
Rachel Carlson (she/her) is a production assistant at Short Wave, NPR's science podcast. She gets to do a bit of everything: researching, sourcing, writing, fact-checking and cutting episodes.